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Tinley Park, IL

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Residential and Commercial plumbers and plumbing contractors available in Orland Park, Tinley Park, Oak Lawn, Palos Heights, Midlothian, Oak Forest, Homer Glen, Mokena, Frankfort, and the surrounding Chicago South Suburbs. Emergency plumbers.

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Kevin Szabo Jr Plumbing Blog

Kevin Szabo Jr Plumbing is Tinley Park, Orland Park, Oak Forest, Midlothian, Orland Hill, Homer Glen, Mokena, Frankfort, Crestwood, Palos Heights, Oak Lawn, local plumber. Read our blog for advice, tips, a good laugh, and basic home improvement.

**We are moving our old blog to our new and improved website. Too see all our posts visit kevinszabojrplumbing.blogspot.com

Filtering by Category: October

Plumbing Glossary

RH Business Marketing Solutions

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PLUMBING GLOSSARY

A

ABS-Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene: A rigid black plastic pipe used for Drain, waste, and vent lines. 
Aerator : A device screwed into the end of a faucet spout that mixes air into flowing water, and controls flow to reduce splashing. It sometimes contains a baffle to reduce flow to 2.5 gpm.
Air Lock : Blockage in the flow of liquid, esp. on the suction side of a pump caused by an air bubble in the line. 
Angle Stop : A shutoff valve between the water pipes and a faucet. Its inlet connects to the water supply pipe in a wall, and its outlet angles up 90 degrees toward the faucet. These are usually used to shut off water to a fixture in case of an emergency repair rather than daily usage. 
Anode Rod : A sacrificial rod installed in a water heater that protects the tank from corrosion, helping to extend the life of the tank. 
Anti-Siphon : Preventive device for the backflow of liquid into a system. Used on sprinkler systems to prevent water from trickling back into the supply that is feeding it. 

B

BTU : British Thermal Unit-A unit of heat energy required to raise the temperature of 1 lb. of water 1 degree Fahrenheit.
Back Flow Preventer : A device to prevent water from traveling from one system back into any part of the main distribution system, usually by siphoning, esp. into a potable water supply. This is generally required for sprinkler systems, handheld showers, pullout faucet spouts, kitchen sprayers, etc.
Back Pressure : Pressure that resists the flow of fluid in a piping system.
Backwater Valve : Sewer line valve that prevents sewage from flowing back into the house.
Ball Check Valve : A valve that uses a ball to seal against a seat to stop flow in one direction.
Ballcock : The fill valve that controls the flow of water from the water supply line into a gravity-operated toilet tank. It is controlled by a float mechanism that floats in the tank water. When the toilet is flushed, the float drops and opens the ballcock, releasing water into the tank and/or bowl. As the water in the tank is restored, the float rises and shuts off the ballcock when the tank is full.
Basin Wrench : A wrench with a long handle with jaws mounted on a swivel that allows the jaws to reach and handle nuts to fasten faucets to a previously installed sink.
Blowbag : A drain-cleaning device consisting of a rubber bladder with a hose fitting on one end and a nozzle on the other. The device attaches to a water hose and is inserted into a clogged drainpipe. As water is introduced, it expands to grip the pipe, and releases pulsating bursts of water through the nozzle, forcing water through the pipe to clear the obstruction.
Branch : Any part of a drain system other than the main, riser, or stack.
Branch Vent : A vent connecting one or more individual vents with a vent stack. 

C

Catch Basin : Large underground container, with a grate on the top, for collection of storm water run-off. It catches or collects dirt and other debris and prevents them from polluting streams and lakes.
Centerset : Style of bathroom faucet having combined spout and handles, with handles 4 inches apart, center-to-center. Also a single-handle faucet installed on 4 inches center-to-center faucet holes.
Check Valve : A type of backflow preventer installed in a pipe run that allows water to flow in only one direction.
Circuit Vent : Plumbing drainage system vertical vent which is run from the last two traps on a horizontal drain line to the main vent stack of a building drainage system.
Cistern : Rainwater storage tank, often underground.
Cleanout Plug : A plug in a trap or drain pipe that provides access for the purpose of clearing an obstruction.
Closet : Toilet.
Closet Auger : A flexible rod with a curved end used to access the toilet's built-in trap and remove clogs.
Closet Bend : A curved fitting mounted immediately below the toilet that connects the closet flange to the toilet drain.
Closet Flange : An anchoring ring that attaches to the closet bend and secured to the floor. The heads of closet bolts, used to secure the toilet in place, insert into slots in the closet flange.
Cock : A faucet or valve for regulating the flow of water.
Common Vent : Building drain system vertical vent which connects two or more fixture branches on the same level.
Compression Fitting : A kind of tubing or pipe connection where a nut, and then a sleeve or ferrule is placed over a copper or plastic tube and is compressed tightly around the tube as the nut is tightened, formin a positive grip and seal without soldering. Also a flexible connector that has a nut and gasket designed to attach directly to an SAE standard compression thread, without the use of a sleeve or ferrule.
Compression Valve : A type of valve that is often used for water faucets. It is opened or closed by raising or lowering a horizontal disk by a threaded stem.
Coupling : Vent pipe hood, which protects it from the elements.
Culvert : A pipe-like construction of concrete that passes under a road to allow drainage. 

D

Desanco Fitting : A type of compression adapter that connects tubular brass fittings to PVC pipe.
Diaphragm : Flexible membrane in a valve that deflects down onto a rigid area of the valve body to regulate water flow from the supply lines. This eliminates the possibility of debris build-up within the valve.
Dip Tube : Tube inside the water heater that sends cold water to the bottom of the tank.
Direct Tap : Clamping device that allows a branch line to be drilled and tapped off a main line.
Discharge Tube : Outlet tube that connects a disposer or sump pump to the drain line.
Disposal Field : A series of trenches conveying the effluent from the septic tank laid in such a manner that the flow will be distributed with reasonable uniformity into natural soil.
Dishwasher Tailpiece : A flanged adapter connecting a basket strainer to the drainpipe with a dishwasher inlet.
Diverter : Valves which direct water to various outlets. They are used in showers, tubs, bidets, and sinks.
Drip Leg : A stub end pipe placed at a low point in the gas piping to collect condensate and permit its removal.
Drum Trap : An obsolete, non-vented drain lead or cast iron canister trap formerly used in sewer lines.
Duo Valve : A twin valve (hot & cold) with a single on/off lever used for washing machine boxes. 

E

E. Coli : The common abbreviation of Escherichia Coli. One of the members of the coliform groups of bacteria indicating fecal contamination.
Earthquake Strap : A metal strap used to secure a water heater to the house frame or foundation.
Efficiency : A product's ability to utilize input energy, expressed as a percentage.
Effluent : Septic system liquid waste.
Escutcheon : A decorative metal flange or trim shield beneath a faucet handle that covers the faucet stem and the hole in the fixture or wall.
Expansion Tank : A tank designed to absorb excess pressure due to thermal expansion (e.g. closed system).

F

Fall/Flow : The proper slope or pitch of a pipe for adequate drainage.
Female Fitting : A fitting that receives a pipe or fitting. A fitting into which another fitting is inserted.
Finish Plumbing : Installation of plumbing fixtures to make the system usable.
Flapper Valve : The part on the bottom of the toilet tank that opens to allow water to flow from the tank into the bowl.
Float Ball : The floating ball connected to the ballcock inside the tank that rises or falls with changing water levels in the tank, and actuates or shuts off the ballcock as needed.
Floor Flange : A fitting that connects a toilet to a floor drain.
Flushometer : Toilet valve that automatically shuts off after it meters a certain amount of water flow.
Flushometer Tank System : Toilet flushing system that uses supply water pressure to compress water to provide a pressurized flush as opposed to a gravity flush.
Flux : Paste applied to copper pipes and fittings before soldering to help the fusion process and prevent oxidation.
Footprint : The area of floor space taken up by a water heater or other appliance.
French Drain : A covered ditch containing a layer of fitted or loose stone or other pervious material. 

G

Gas Cock : Plug valve installed the main gas line and an appliance.
Gas Control : Device used to regulate gas pressure on a water heater.
Gate : A device that controls the flow in a conduit, pipe, or tunnel.
Gate Diverter : The pop-up lever on a tub faucet that activates the diverter valve.
Gravity Operated Toilet : A toilet that relies on the natural downward pressure of water in a toilet tank to flush the toilet effectively.
Gray Water : Waste water from sinks, showers, and bathtubs, but not toilets.

H

Horizontal Branch : Lateral drain pipes that run from plumbing fixtures to the waste stack in a building or in the soil.
Horizontal Run : The horizontal distance between the point where fluid enters a pipe and the point at which it leaves.
Hose Bibb : An outdoor faucet, also used to supply washing machines.
House Trap : U-shaped fitting with two adjacent cleanout plugs visible at floor level if main drain runs under floor.
Hubless (No-Hub) : Cast iron drainage pipe with neoprene gaskets and clamps.
Hydronic : System of forced hot water.

I

Indirect Wastes : Waste pipe used to convey gray water by discharging it into a plumbing fixture such as a floor drain.
Instantaneous Water Heater : A type of water heater that heats water as it flows through a heat exchanger coil.

J

Jet : An orifice or other feature of a toilet that is designed to direct water into the trapway quickly to start the siphon action.
Johnni-bolts : Closet bolts, used to mount toilet bowls to the closet flange.

K

Knockout Plug : PVC test plug.

L

Lavatory (Lav) : A fixed bowl or basin with running water and drainage for washing. Bathroom sink.
Leach Field : Porous soil area, through which septic tank leach lines run, emptying the treated waste.
Leader : Pipe carrying rainwater to the ground or sewer.
Lock Nut : Nut fitted into a piece of pipe and screwed onto another pipe to join the two pieces

M

Main : The primary artery of supply of the water supply or drain system in which all the branches connect. In the case of drains, known as the Main Vent.
Male Threads : Threads on the outside of pipes and fittings.
Malleable Fittings : Fittings made of metal which is soft and pliable.
Manifold : A fitting that connects a number of branches to the main; serves as a distribution point.
Mechanicals : The wiring, plumbing and heating and cooling systems in a building; also the components with moving parts such as furnaces, plumbing fixtures, etc.
Multi-Stage Pump : A pump that has more than one impeller.

N

Nipple : A short length of pipe installed between couplings or other fittings.
No-Hub Connector : A connector for no-hub iron pipe consisting of a rubber sleeve and a stainless steel band secured by hose clamps. A variation, a neoprene sleeve with two adjustable steel bands, is used for connecting dissimilar materials, as when connecting new plastic pipe to an existing cast-iron drainpipe. 

O

O-Ring : Round rubber washer used to create a watertight seal, chiefly around valve stems.
Oakum : Loosely woven hemp rope that has been treated with oil or other waterproofing agent; it is used to caulk joints in a bell and spigot pipe and fittings.
Outlet Sewer : Pipe section in a septic system which runs between the septic tank and the drainage field.

P

PVC : Polyvinyl chloride. A rigid white or cream-colored plastic pipe used in non-pressure systems, such as drainage, waste, and vent systems.
Packing : Fibrous material that is used on faucets to prevent leaks.
Packing Nut : Nut that holds the stem of a faucet in position & holds the packing material.
Peak Hour Demand : Time when the largest demand for hot water is needed.
Pipe Dope : Slang for pipe-joint compound. Substance applied to threaded fittings to create a watertight seal.
Pitch : Downward slope of a drain pipe in the direction of the water flow.
Plumb : Precisely vertical. Also to test for, or to make vertical. Also to perform plumbing work.
Plumber's Putty : Pliable, popular putty used to seal joints between drain pieces and fixture surfaces.
Plumbing Tree : Prefabricated set of drain waste, vent, and supply lines.
Pop-Up Drain : Type of drain assembly for lavatory and bath. When a lavatory lift rod or bath overflow plate lever is lifted, the pop-up drain closes so the lavatory or tub retains water.
Port : An opening in a burner head through which gas or an air-gas mixture is discharged for ignition.
Positive Displacement Pump : Called a PD pump. Gear, sliding vane, progressive cavity, lobe etc. the capacity determined by the pump speed. The maximum head is determined by the horsepower available and the casing strength.
Pressure Balance Valve : Shower mixing valve that automatically maintains balance between incoming hot and cold water supplies by immediately regulating fluctuations in pressure. As a result, temperature remains constant, though the outlet pressure may drop. Also known as an anti-scald valve.
Pressure Tank : Device used to pump water from a well.
Pressure Tubing : Tubing used to conduct fluids under pressure or at elevated temperatures or both, and produced to stricter tolerances than pipe.

R

Rated Storage Volume : Quantity of water stored in a tank.
Reamer : A grinding tool used to level or remove burrs from valve seats in faucets so that the valve stem will fit properly.
Recovery Capacity : The amount of water in gallons per hour raised 100 degrees F at a given thermal efficiency and BTU per hour input.
Reducer : A fitting that connects pipes of different sizes together.
Return Circulation System : Tempered water from or near the point of usage which eliminates waste of hot water used for long runs and adds storage to the system.
Revent : Pipe installed specifically to vent a fixture trap. Connects with the vent system above the fixture.
Reverse Trap Water Closet : A water closet having a siphonic trapway at the rear of the bowl, and integral flushing rim and jet.
Rigid Pipe : Pipe designed to transmit the backfill load to the foundation beneath the pipe. Rigid pipe must be supported on the bottom portion of the pipe.
Rim Holes : A series of small holes in the underside of a toilet rim, around the circumference of the bowl. Incoming water flows down into the bowl through these holes, creating a rinse effect or wash over the entire inner surface of the bowl.
Riser : A vertical metal or plastic tube or assembly that connects a faucet to the water supply stop valve. Usually made of copper. Metal Flex Risers are corrugated to facilitate bending. Also a supply line that rises from one story to the next.
Roof Flashing : Sheet metal installed at any break in a shingled roofline to prevent leaks. Also around sewer vents, fluepipes.
Rough-In : Installation of the drain, waste, vent, and supply lines in a structure to the proposed location of each fixture.
Rough-In Dimensions : The distance from a finished wall or floor to the center of the waste or supply opening or mounting holes on a plumbing fixture.
Run : A complete or secondary section of pipe that extends from supply to fixture or drain to stack.

S

Saddle Valve : A valve mounted on a pipe run by a clamping device, or fitting that taps into the side of a pipe, used to make quick connection to an existing line to provide a water supply for a low-demand device.
Sanitary Sewer : House drain that carries wastewater away from the house to a sewer system or septic tank.
Self-Rimming Sink : Sink with no metal ring that has a built-in lip of the same material which supports it in the vanity top.
Service Entrance : Pipe connecting the water company piping to the water meter.
Setting : Pumps' vertical distance in feet from the top of the well to the top of the pump.
Shroud : Color-matched component under a wall-mount lavatory that covers the drain outlet for aesthetic purposes.
Siphon-Vortex Water Closet : A toilet having a trapway at the rear of the bowl, integral flushing rim, and a water supply system with or without a jet, which does not feed directly into the trap.
Sleeve : Pipe which is passed through a wall for the purpose of inserting another pipe through it.
Slip Joint : A connection made with compression fittings.
Soil Stack : Largest vertical drain line to which all branch waste lines connect. This line carries waste to the sewer line.
Solder : Metal alloy that is melted to create a fused joint between metal pieces. Also the act of melting solder into the joint.
Spud : A threaded opening on the water heater tank. Also a tool for digging having characteristics of a shade and chisel.
Stack : The vertical main in the drain, waste, and vent system, extending one or more stories.
Stand Pipe : Open vertical pipe that receives water from a washing machine. Also the vertical pipe run supplying water to a fire sprinkler system; also large vertical pipe into which water is pumped in order to produce a desired pressure; a high vertical pipe or reservoir that is used to secure a uniform pressure in a water-supply system
Static Lift : The vertical distance between source and discharge water levels in a pump installation.
Stop Valve : The shutoff valve under sinks and toilets. Allows water supply to be cut off to one fixture without affecting the water supply to other fixtures.
Straight Cross : Fitting that connects four pipes of the same diameter.
Sump : A pit or pool for draining, collecting, or storing water. A chamber which provides water to the pump.
Sweating : Slang term for soldering. Also formation of condensation on the outside of pipes or toilet tanks.

T

T & P Valve : Temperature & pressure relief valve. A safety device used to expel excess pressure or heat from inside a tank.
Tailpiece : Section of pipe that runs between a fixture outlet and the trap.
Tail Pipe : The pipe added below the jet assembly, in a weak well application.
Tank : Fixture reservoir for flush water. On a conventional toilet, the ballcock, flush valve, and trip lever are installed in the tank. A tank lid closes the top tank opening.
Tank Cross : A double-tee-shaped fitting installed between a shallow well pump and the bladder tank with integrated valve and gauge fittings, and an outlet for a pressure-relief valve.
Tap Tee : Cast iron tee with a threaded female side inlet.
Thermocouple : Small electric generator. Electron flow between the hot junction of 1200 degrees F and cold junction of 600 degrees F creates millivoltage.
Thermostatic Valve : Pressure-balancing shower mixing valve with automatic temperature control. When temperature or pressure fluctuations occur at the water inlets, a thermal actuator adjusts the hot and cold ratio to maintain the original temperature setting.
Trap : Curved section of drain line that prevents sewer odors from escaping into the atmosphere. All fixtures that have drains must have a "P" trap installed. A toilet is the only plumbing fixture with an "S" trap.
Trap Arm : The waste arm portion of a drainage trap.
Trap Dip : The U-bend portion of a drainage trap.
Trap Primer : A small feeder line connecting the cold water line directly to the drainage trap, which releases a small amount of water to the trap should it run dry to maintain the water seal.
Trap Seal : Height of water in a toilet bowl "at rest.". It provides the water seal which prevents sewer gases from entering the home. It is measured from the top of the dam down to the inlet of the trapway. Also referred to as deep seal.
Trapway : Channel in a toilet that connects the bowl to the waste outlet. It is where the siphonic action takes place. The trapway is measured in terms of the largest diameter ball which can pass through it. Also called the passageway.
Trip Lever : Flush handle and actuating arm on a toilet tank. Also the lever that opens and closes the drain on the bathtub waste and overflow.

U

Uni-flex : One piece stop and riser combination. One-piece supply.
Union : Three piece fitting that joins two sections of pipe, but allows them to be disconnected without cutting the pipe. Used primarily with steel pipe; never in a DWV system.
Usable Storage : Percentage of hot water that can be drawn from a tank before the temperature drops to a point that it is no longer considered hot.

V

Vacuum Breaker : An anti-siphon device that prevents the backflow of contaminated water into the water supply system.
Valve Dressing : Resurfacing a worn valve seat with a special tool. Stops leaks by providing a smooth sealing surface. Applies only to older compression style faucets.
Valve Seat : The non-moving part of a valve. Water flow is stopped when the moveable portion of the valve comes in contact with the valve seat.
Vent : A pipe that allows air into a drain system to balance the air pressure, preventing water in the traps from being siphoned off.
Vent Header : A vent pipe into which several vents connect. The vent pipe leads to the vent stack and out of the building.
Vent Stack : Upper portion of the soil stack above the topmost fixture through which gases and odors escape.
Venturi : A short tube with a tapered constriction in the middle that causes an increase in the velocity of flow of a fluid and a corresponding decrease in fluid pressure and that is used for creating a suction in a vacuum pump.
Viscosity : The resistance of fluids to flow, due to internal forces and friction between molecules, which increases as its temperature decreases.
Vitreous China : Ceramic materials fired at high temperature to form a non-porous body, having exposed surfaces coated with ceramic glaze fused to the body. This is used to form bathroom fixtures such as toilets, bidets, and lavs.

W

Washdown Water Closet : Water closet having a siphon trapway at the front of the bowl, and integral flushing rim.
Waste Arm : Drain extension pipe, usually to extend a sink drain into a wall.
Waste & Overflow : Drain assembly for a bathtub. The outlet at the top removes the overflow water during tub filling and the drain at the bottom removes wastewater when the tub is drained.
Widespread : A style of bathroom lavatory faucet having separate spout and handles, usually 8" from center of handle to handle.

Y

Yoke : Usually a brass casting that holds both the hot and cold valves and the mixing chamber for the water. May also refer to an assembly of copper or other metal which serves the same function.

Contributor: https://www.hypro-drains.com/glossary.php

What To Consider When Adding An Outdoor Living Area

RH Business Marketing Solutions

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If you already have a home that feels and looks like a resort, adding an outdoor living area would be a great idea. Regardless of size, your outdoor living area can become a source of solace and refuge, a place where you can relax and unwind. 

However, turning your outdoor living area into the ideal getaway will entail more than just choosing the right patio shades or outdoor furniture. It will require thorough planning so you can cover all the bases.

Below are things you need to take into account when adding an outdoor living area:

Size and shape

The area you'll need for your outdoor living space will depend on the activities and functions you intend to do. As a general rule of thumb, ensure sufficient space is available to enable people to move around comfortably from inside to outside without having to navigate around fixtures and furniture.

Privacy and weather protection

Outdoor living space is an external area that's often exposed to the elements. Fortunately, there are various ways to design an outdoor living space to suit the changing weather conditions—from summer to winter. 

Some of these measures include patio shades, sliding screens of aluminum or timber, roll down blinds, or fixed or adjustable louvers. Bi-folding louvers or glass screens can also be used to close off the outdoor living space during nasty weather.

Screens and blinds can also help regulate the privacy of the outdoor living space. Depending on your neighbors' proximity, privacy has to be a top priority to avoid feeling on constant display or becoming a nuisance to the neighbors.

Roofs

To make your outdoor living area a more inviting space, you can invest in modern roofing systems that will open in good weather and close when the weather elements are unfavorable. 

Modern roofs can also help drain away stormwater like any regular roof. Not only that, it also adds flexibility to the outdoor living area as it can also be used to control the amount of daylight you want to let in.

Walls

When it comes to flooring, ceramic tiles can be a great option as they can provide a durable and easy to maintain finish that can resist warping or fading even when exposed to direct sunlight. Natural timber is also a great alternative as it provides warmth and adds to the visual appeal. It can also be very durable when looked after accordingly.

However, in most cases, the outdoor flooring of choice is based on the type used within the house. Many homeowners prefer the continuity of the same floor finish inside and out, as this reinforces the seamless indoor and outdoor relationship most people want to achieve.

Access

The location of the access to the internal space and the position of the outdoor living space needs careful deliberation. If you intend to host outdoor entertainment and dining, proximity to the dining and kitchen is crucial. From the outdoor living space, access needs to be provided to other external areas, including the garden, garage, swimming pool, etc. 

The circulation from the house through the outdoor living space should also be taken into account alongside the positioning of the dining tables, furniture, and other fixtures. Any changes in the level between the yard and the outdoor living area should also be considered, so access is safe and convenient.

Attention should also be given to fences and pool gates as they can often impede convenient access. The access door from the house to the living space is also often given much consideration. There are various options available, including stacking sliding doors, bi-folding doors, and French doors.

When choosing a door, you can narrow down your options by selecting one that provides ease of access without costing a fortune. You should also go for doors that allow unrestricted flow from the inside out as they can be crucial when socializing or entertaining friends, guests, or extended family.

Final Thoughts

Over the years, outdoor living spaces have become increasingly popular and have become a staple part of most contemporary homes. Given that you cover all the bases, you can easily transform your outdoor living area into a beautiful space where you can relax and unwind and entertain friends and loved ones.

Guest Contributor: Anna Fox

5 Practical Tips for Relocating a Small Family-Owned Business

RH Business Marketing Solutions

Plumbers in crestwood

5 Practical Tips for Relocating a Small Family-Owned Business

When you’re running a small family-sized business, every client counts, and the concept of “time equals money” becomes so close to you that there is not a second to lose during your busy week. Sure, it’s great fun, and it helps preserve personal relationships with clients that bigger brands just can’t create or uphold, but when it comes to finally relocating, things can get a bit messy.

Just imagine running a family-owned plumbing business and having to move all of those tools and delicate equipment you carefully stored in your current office to a completely new location across town. Now that’s a challenge, especially when trying to keep your clients at your side. With that in mind, here are the five relocation steps you should follow for a safe and quick small business move.

Set Up your New Office Beforehand

Whether you’re moving to a new house or to a new office or facility, the first thing you need to do is prepare the new space for you arrival. This doesn’t just mean you should tidy up or connect the utilities, this means picking up right where you left off without feeling it on your budget, and without your clients feeling it on their own skin.

This is why complete office preparation is so important. You can start by deciding where everything, down to the last screwdriver, is supposed to be in the new office. Make a mock-up of the new space and write down where everything is supposed to go – it will save you plenty of time when you arrive.

Crestwood plumbers

Make a Detailed Packing Plan

It should go without saying that you should have a sound packing plan when it comes to moving your entire operation, but let’s say it anyway. Relocating a business, no matter how small, can only be done efficiently if you know what you’re doing every step of the way. This means that you need a detailed packing plan that will take you from inception to completion without losing business, your stuff, or your employees.

Instead of packing everything on moving day, start the packing process early. You can pack your non-essential equipment first, and then move on to the essential tools as the moving day approaches. Be sure to consult your schedule to ensure you didn’t pack a crucial piece of equipment that you actually need.

Crestwood IL plumbers

Save Time and Money by Renting a Truck

Hire professional movers? Sure, that might be the first thing that pops in your head, but that might not be the best cost-effective solution to your predicament. The truth is that moving companies tend to be needlessly expensive, especially in the wake of the truck hire revolution and the benefits it brings: lower cost, saving precious time, and complete control. Therefore, opting for Budget truck rental service to relocate your operation quickly and without busting the proverbial bank is the best way to go. Simply load everything up and be on your way while your customers and clients are still sleeping and you’ll be up-and-running without losing a dime.

Plumbers in Crestwood IL

Sort and Pack your Tools

For a small family business such as a plumbing company or an electrician, the tools are worth more than anything, and therefore they require special handling and care during the relocation process. The first thing you should do, of course, is to sort all of your tools before packing them. Be sure to clean them as well, as there will be no time to do this in the new place.

Pack all of your hand tools into the toolbox and be sure to sort them into their corresponding sockets instead of just dumping everything in the main compartment. You can pack all of your power tools in labeled boxes, as these are sturdy enough to withstand the trip without special protection. Remember to drain all motorized tools of fuel before you pack them, because you never know what might light a disastrous spark.

Crestwood Plumbers

Inform Everyone of your Move

Last, but definitely not least, everyone should be in the know when it comes to your relocation. Don’t wait until the last day to inform your clients that you’re moving, because chances are you’re going to spook them. If you spook them, they will start looking for the same service somewhere else. Be sure you inform all relevant people of your move several months in advance, especially if you’re running a business where people come to you. This way, everyone will know exactly what to expect, and how to continue doing business with you without wasting their time or money.

Relocating a small family business is not a walk in the park, no matter how small the business is. By following these steps, though, you will have no problem moving your company to a new location without putting pressure on your employees, customers, or your wallet.

 Guest Contributor,

About the author: Mike Johnston is a home improvement blogger and DIY enthusiast from Sydney. He is a regular writer at Smooth Decorator and contributor on several interior design, lifestyle, real estate and eco blogs. Mike’s goal is to create and share meaningful content that helps and inspires people.

 

 

10 Plumbing & Maintenance Tools You Should Always Have At Home

RH Business Marketing Solutions

Plumbers in Crestwood

10 Plumbing & Maintenance Tools You Should Always Have At Home

Hiring a plumber isn’t always the thing that you may be wishing to do for a variety of reasons.

You may be living in a secluded location without quick access to such services. Or you may be in an emergency situation where mere minutes could be decisive.

Besides, some plumbing jobs are relatively simple and actually don’t require a professional necessarily.

In either case, you would probably want to have some plumbing & maintenance tools on hand for such cases. Even if you won’t really be doing plumbing jobs yourself, you should have a couple of basic tools just in case.

So without further ado, let’s see what the 10 basic plumbing and maintenance tools you should be having in your toolbox are.

Toilet Plunger

Toilet plungers are essential for any household. In fact, you may want to have two plungers instead of one: one flange and one cup plunger. Even if you don’t run into a clog issue that frequently, you should have them just in case.

Flange plungers are suitable for clearing toilet clogs because they have an additional soft rubber coming from the cup. And the cup plunger is a tool that would be useful for clearing clogs in sinks, tubs, or other flat-surface drains.

Basin Wrench

A staple in any plumber’s toolbox, the basin wrench can come in handy in basically any plumbing task.

It is a self-tightening wrench designed to fit into narrow spaces, so you could easily tighten or loosen fittings with a basin wrench in hard-to-reach corners where other types of wrenches just wouldn’t be able to fit into.

And you wouldn’t need to break through any walls to reach those areas!

Pipe Wrench

Pipe wrenches nowadays aren’t being used as widely as they once used to, but they still are necessary plumbing tools.

A pipe wrench is used to tighten and loosen fittings and nuts. In fact, you would probably need to have two pipe wrenches: one to hold the fitting and the other to actually loosen or tighten it with.

You could use just one pipe wrench to adjust the fittings, but you would put stress on the installation. If you are dealing with delicate piping, then using only one pipe wrench could end badly.

Adjustable Wrench

Adjustable wrenches are used on compression fittings, supply lines, and generally all the plumbing parts that have hex-shaped nuts. In addition, an adjustable wrench could be used if you don’t want to scratch any finish off of the installation.

When choosing an adjustable wrench, you would want to get one that has a firm jaw setting. If an adjustable wrench doesn’t have one, it just won’t work properly. And if it slips, you may damage your installation.

In addition, make sure to get both 6- and 10-inch adjustable wrenches.

Auger & Snake

Plumbing auger and snake are actually two separate plumbing tools, but since they are often used in tandem, we figured to list them as one.

The auger-and-snake tandem is used for clearing drain clogs that simply don’t yield to a regular plunger. Most commonly, auger and snake are used for dealing with toilet clogs.

Both are designed to easily move through the toilet drain to catch the potential clogs and pull them out. The difference between the two is that a snake is a much more flexible plumbing tool.

Hacksaw

A hacksaw would allow you to cut through metal and plastic pipes, hardware, screws, nuts, and whatnot. This is a tool that could come in handy if you can’t really deal with the problem by just tightening or replacing a couple of fittings.

A typical hacksaw is quite bulky and is thereby unsuitable for use in tight areas. You could, however, remove the blade, wrap it in a piece of cloth on one end, and then slip the blade in the tight area. Or, you could just go for a more compact hacksaw to deal with hard-to-reach areas.

Make sure to keep some extra blades in your toolbox just in case. Besides, when dealing with tough cuts, make sure that the blade is tense.

Tongue-and-Groove Pliers

Tongue-and-groove pliers are used to grab, hold, tighten, loosen, or pull something. In fact, some plumbers use these instead of a pipe wrench, probably because they prefer them to pipe wrenches thanks to their compactness and convenience.

Just like pipe wrenches, tongue-and-groove pliers work best in a pair when you hold the fitting with one plier and loosen or tighten it with the other. You would thereby want to have two, though one would still be sufficient for many plumbing jobs.

Tubing Cutter

A tubing cutter is another tool to cut piping with. It is generally more convenient than a hacksaw since it allows you to do quick cuts. Besides, tubing cutter does the cutting much cleaner.

However, whether you need a hacksaw or a tubing cutter will depend on the metal, so you would probably want to have both in your toolbox. Tubing cutters are most commonly used to cut copper or plastic piping.

There are also mini tubing cutters available on the market, so consider to get one as well for reaching tight corners.

Thread Seal Tape

Commonly referred to as PTFE tape or plumber’s tape, thread seal tape is used to sealing pipe threads. Aside from that, the tape works as a thread lubricant and as a deformable filler. Because of that, a joint wrapped in thread sealed tape doesn’t become hard to tighten.

Thread seal tape is inexpensive, so make sure to have a couple of rolls in your toolbox.

Metal File

A metal file is used to smoothen the edges of cut metal pipes, as well as to remove burrs. For jobs where you use a hacksaw, a metal file may be a necessity.

There are various file sizes available on the market, but you don’t have to get every single one of them. Generally, having a rat-tail file and a half-round file in your toolbox would be sufficient for the majority of plumbing jobs.

Of course, there are hundreds of other tools you can get for your home. We tried to stick to the basics to keep you safe when the time comes.

Guest Contributor, Morgan Antoinette

Bathroom Painting Tips

RH Business Marketing Solutions

Painted Bathroom.jpg

Bathroom Painting Tips

The bathrooms in your home serve a very necessary and functional purpose. However, they are also another room in the home where you can showcase your personal style. Throwing a new color of paint on the walls is just one of the many ways you can add style to the space. It’s also one of the greatest ways to do so.

If adding your own style to the space isn’t enough, another great reason to paint the space is due to the fact that most bathrooms are likely to undergo a lot of abuse from the steam that constantly arises from baths and showers. The humidity levels in your bathroom are likely to rise and fall more drastically which remains a tough challenge for the paint and walls to persist against.

Fortunately, freshly painting your bathroom is a simple DIY project that tends to take no more than a few days to complete, but before you begin slathering paint everywhere you should continue to read the helpful painting tips below.

Choose a Paint Color First

Since it is already established that shinier sheens are best for bathrooms where moisture is often a concern, you must only be concerned with your choice of paint color. Choosing the wrong paint color can easily make your bathroom seem sterile and uninviting. To avoid this, it is suggested that you choose an overall color scheme for your bathroom based on three colors complementary to one another on the Color Wheel. Once you have these three colors, choose one that best suits your bathroom as a paint color for the walls. The other two colors can be shown through any other accents and decor.

Collect All the Proper Materials and Supplies

Before you begin painting your bathroom, gather all the proper painting materials and supplies. These may include:

●      Primer

●      Paint

●      Stir sticks

●      Paint rollers

●      Roller covers

●      Disposable gloves and other safety gear to protect your skin or inhalation

●      Small paint brushes, for cutting in or touch-ups

●      Paint trays

●      Painters tape

●      Rags

●      Drop cloths

●      Sandpaper

●      Tack cloth to remove any sanding dust

●      Painters putty

●      Putty knife

Being prepared to paint is extremely important. Otherwise, you may end up with a mess or an unfinished project due to the lack of supplies. Running out for more could cause the paint to dry in the meantime, which won’t due any justice to the overall appearance of the paint job.

Make Sure Your Bathroom Is Properly Ventilated

It’s vital to your health and the completion of your bathroom paint project if proper ventilation is provided. The higher levels of humidity can damage your paint in no time or stop it from completely drying. To provide adequate ventilation, open windows, turn on ceiling fans nearby, or start the exhaust fan to help clear the room of any steam. This will remove the moisture faster. Have those in the household run a fan if they need to use the bathroom at any point.

Conduct Prep Work

Prep your bathroom by removing any outlet plates such as electrical sockets or light switches. Then, lightly wash down the walls with soap and warm water. After the walls dry completely, apply painters tape to the baseboards. Next, patch and sand any dents or holes in the walls. To protect your floors, tape down a drop cloth. You may also want to cover your counter, sink, bathtub and toilet to prevent them from paint spills or drips.

Before you paint, you will want to prime the walls first. Make sure the primer is fully dry before you start putting on the first layer of paint. When you do go to paint the color on the walls, cut in around the room’s edges first. This includes where the walls meet adjoining walls, the ceiling and the baseboard.

Use More Durable Paint on Window Sills

If you plan on repainting your window sills in the bathroom, you may want to consider using more durable paint. High gloss or semi gloss paint is perhaps best for your window frame and sill since moisture seems to be more prevalent in these areas. If moisture around the window sills of your bathroom is of your utmost concern, you may even upgrade to an exterior paint for this part of your project.

Consider Wood Paneling

If your drywall isn’t in the best of shape or you prefer not to redo the drywall in your bathroom, consider wood paneling. You can often find wood paneling sold cheaply by the sheet. These sheets come in many styles, wood types, and colors. Nonetheless, you can always install them and paint them whichever color you choose. When you apply wood panels to your bathroom walls, they are adding more protection against moisture as well as a lovely contrast to whatever paint color you chose for the remaining wall space.

Have a Variety of Lighting and Capture the Room’s Essence

Lighting plays a large role in the essence of your bathroom even after you paint. Since the levels of natural light are always changing in a bathroom throughout the day, it’s wise to have a good balance of both natural and fixed lighting. A lot of natural light will only enhance any and every flaw you make in the bathroom during your painting project. Even after you complete the paint job, the flaws will still be noticeable. With this in mind, paints with a higher shine are best.

When you have a smaller sized bathroom that gets a lot of natural light, ask the representatives where you plan to purchase the paint if they can mix it at 75% strength. This will lighten the color slightly which prevents flaws from being as noticeable. Aside from lighting the strength of color in the paint, there are ways you can play with the lighting to keep the color of the walls looking as close as possible to the color you desire. For instance, to warm up the color you can choose 40 watt incandescent light bulbs, while 100 watt light bulbs tend to make the color in the room seem cooler.

Don’t Rush Your Project

Perhaps the most detrimental thing you can do while painting the bathroom in your home is rush to complete it. Of course, poor preparation also plays a substantial role in a bad paint job. Nevertheless, it is the failure to take your time that really makes the paint in your bathroom lack appeal and showcase any flaws. Take your time. Even by doing so, the entire bathroom should be fully painted and completed in just a few days time. Make sure that you prepare your drywall, smooth out the walls, prime, and paint the next layer after each layer is completely dry. By doing so, you are certainly going to be more pleased with the results.

Guest Contributor, Tom Masters

Signs Your Heat Pump Needs Immediate Service

RH Business Marketing Solutions

Winter House.jpg

Signs Your Heat Pump Needs Immediate Service

Heat pumps have always been a reliable way of keeping ourselves warm during the winter. However, heat pumps are still machines that are bound to have something go wrong with it in the course of its lifespan.

When it suddenly acts up, it most likely means that it needs immediate service. Here are some signs that should tell you when to call an HVAC company for a professional heating system repair.

Insanely high energy bills

Getting high energy bills when you’ve got your heat pump running all throughout the summers and winters is perfectly natural. What isn’t is an energy bill that is practically double what you usually get. The prime suspect in any suspiciously high bill will be your heat pump.

Dirty air filters could be the cause as it restricts airflow and makes the heat pump work harder, which in turn leads to more energy consumption and higher bills. There could also be holes in your duct, which wastes a lot of precious heated air. These are possible causes that you can DIY, but some problems like low refrigerant charge or refrigerant overcharge are best left to HVAC experts.

Weird sounds

An HVAC system does make some noise, but when it’s louder than usual, and there are clattering, banging, hissing, or bubbling sounds involved, waste no time in shutting the unit down and calling a trusted HVAC company. Only pros should deal with what could be a poorly-lubricated central air fan motor, a loose fan belts, a compressor running under too much pressure, or a refrigerant leak.

Burning smells

Does the heated air coming out of your heat pump smell have a burning smell? If so, shut it down immediately because there really must be something burning inside. It could be a component that’s overheating or a simple electrical problem. Whatever the cause, never even try to turn the unit on again until the HVAC pros get there.

No more heat

If the heat pump has been running for an hour and everyone is still shivering, then there must be something wrong with your heat pump. A dirty air filter can cause it, but so can a malfunctioning PCB assembly, a defective thermistor, or a failing capacitor.

While you can change the air filters yourself, only skilled and experienced HVAC professionals should deal with the other possible issues.

You wouldn’t want your heat pump to break down in the middle of winter, so if you notice any of the signs mentioned above, call an HVAC company right away.

 Guest Contributor, Michelle West

Getting Rid Of Mold In Your Home

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Mold in your house.jpg

Getting Rid of Mold in Your Home

Although just a tiny organism, minuscule mold can pack a serious punch: one report reveals mold cost the U.S. $22.4 billion in health care expenses in 2016 alone. How much is that? That’s almost the GDP of Jamaica. Without plumbing performed by a professional in your kitchen, bathroom, or workplace, mold can quickly get the upper hand. So what can be done to rid your household of mold in your sinks, leaky showers, closets and bed sheets? Here are some tips to get you started.

Humidity: Mold’s Favorite Environment

Mold loves moisture. In fact, it needs it to survive. Just like us humans and other animals, mold needs water to survive and thrive. But given even a little bit of moisture, this simple organism becomes a nuisance, wreaking havoc on our respiratory, and even neurological, systems. Once mold gets exposed to moisture, it can begin to multiply. At that point, it is able to release spores that go up into the air and settle on nearby surfaces, creating veritable mold colonies. With humidity above 50%, mold starts flourishspawning new mold wherever it can. However, without humidity, mold dies of thirst. So step one in controlling mold is to dehumidify your home.

Get Leaks and Floods Fixed by Pros

A quality professional plumbing service is a must when your home has sprung a leak. Yes, maybe you could tighten a nut or bolt or two, but while the leak was happening, how much mold started to grow? A plumbing expert can come in and not only fix the problem but analyze the area to see if any mold used the leak to start building an unwanted home. And if there is any significant flooding, regardless of the source or type, it’s a must to get experienced pros to handle the cleanup. These things cannot be left to chance.

You Can Hunt and Kill It

Even though mold can be dangerous, it’s also a fairly fragile little creature. Once spotted, some bleach mixed with water will get the job done. Killing the mold really isn’t the most difficult part of the job. The challenge comes with protecting yourself and your family in the process. Cover all of your skin and blow a fan out a window to whisk away any spores stirred up while cleaning. And, when in doubt, play it safe by hiring a professional to handle the work.

If you find mold lurking in your house, be sure to check and double check all plumbing fixtures nearby. Quite often, it is visible in various different colors, so you can easily spot it and quash it. If you can’t see it, you can sniff it out. It has an unmistakable musty odor.  Even if you don’t have bleach handy, don’t worry, other household cleaners also do a good job of stopping it in its tracks. If, after zapping the mold, you keep the humidity down, you can quite literally breath easy.

Guest Contributor, Cindy Trillo

Should You Invest In Mirrors As A Decorative Piece For Your Property?

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Plumber in Crestwood IL

Guest Contributor, Our Friends at Art Consultants Accent Art & Frame

Chic Home Office Decor Tips For Winter

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Home Office.jpg

Chic Home Office Decor Tips For Winter

As the most dazzling season of the year approaches, we all strive to implement something new and original into our home. The most exciting part of the year brings cozy colors, seasonal outlook, and warm feeling into our home. If you happen to work from your house, you would be in for a treat because there are great new décor innovations coming up this winter. Whether you have a small or large office area, you should consider using some of these tips for revamping your workstation.

Bring in the cushy furniture

There is nothing better than having a nice cup of cocoa in front of a warm fireplace. Since during winter time you have to spend a bulk of your time in the office, why not bring that coziness there. Start off by rearranging your furniture, place an old-school brown leather sofa or an upholstery furniture, add funky cushions and even install a modern gas fireplace. Not only will you invite winter in, but you would be amazed at how productive you would be. Also, consider putting vintage indoor brick tiles on one side of the wall. This will spruce up the entire ambient in a cuddled up style.

Glaze up the surroundings

Winter is usually associated with golden, red and white colors. You don't have to follow that tradition entirely, but you can always add a hint of winterly touch here and there. You can give your home office a seasonal update by placing a shining silver mirror, silk pillowcase canada, Kiss Silk or luxurious velvet frames for your Christmas family photos. If you are feeling more festive, you can complete color the office into golden or brownish color, or go simple and buy emerald green lamps or lanterns. Red is the main color of this season, so you can add stunning curtains in this vivid color and open up the surrounding.

Rehabilitate your spirit 

The most important thing, when it comes to winter décor, is to feel and emotionally sense this season in your home office. You can do that by adding chic elements into your office ambients. For instance, place a riveting air freshener with cinnamon scent, or add mesmerizing and soothing candles and silver centerpieces. If you have been standing for a long time, preparing the necessities for the Christmas and running around doing the chores, then you might be feeling tired. To completely indulge into this season and focus better on your job you should add anti-fatigue mat for your desk. Since this mat has fast recovery foam, you would feel more comfortable on your feet and ready to face up any challenge without feeling tired.

Add posh details

In order to feel merry and bright during this season, you don't have to utterly reshape the office but rather add slight details. Winter decorating is all about layering on the fabrics and chic materials. Sheepskin is the epitome of cozy winter home décor. So have a sheepskin pillow or blanket placed on your chair, or cover the chairs with winter style slipcovers. What is more, you can treat your guest with hot green tea in white as snow dishware. Last but not least, adding classical winter decoration such as a traditional wreath in chic details and bold colors, you will definitely create a holiday atmosphere in your office.

Find the right rug

Why not replace the tedious and plain carpet with a great multicolored rug? You can ground your office space with a colorful area rug. If you have simple and clean furniture, you can spice up the chic winterly look by placing a striking rug. Nowadays, you can find an affordable textile rug in various patterns that work perfectly with any wall color. To top it all up, you can go bold and get a one of kind ornamental rug that would stand up age and time.

Bring in the life

When the weather outside is cold and chilly, then you should do the opposite and bring warmth to your home office. Give your home office a makeover and add a touch of life in. Put lush greenery inside, place a nice plant, add a fragrant bowl of potpourri in a pine needle scent. Display that in an arrangement as a casual winter centerpiece and welcome the season inside.

Any décor won’t be complete without a Christmas tree and some shiny ornaments, so don’t hesitate to add that as well.

Guest Contributor, Chloe Smith

Bathroom Painting Tips

RH Business Marketing Solutions

Bathroom Blog post.jpg

Bathroom Painting Tips

The bathrooms in your home serve a very necessary and functional purpose. However, they are also another room in the home where you can showcase your personal style. Throwing a new color of paint on the walls is just one of the many ways you can add style to the space. It’s also one of the greatest ways to do so.

If adding your own style to the space isn’t enough, another great reason to paint the space is due to the fact that most bathrooms are likely to undergo a lot of abuse from the steam that constantly arises from baths and showers. The humidity levels in your bathroom are likely to rise and fall more drastically which remains a tough challenge for the paint and walls to persist against.

Fortunately, freshly painting your bathroom is a simple DIY project that tends to take no more than a few days to complete, but before you begin slathering paint everywhere you should continue to read the helpful painting tips below.

Choose a Paint Color First

Since it is already established that shinier sheens are best for bathrooms where moisture is often a concern, you must only be concerned with your choice of paint color. Choosing the wrong paint color can easily make your bathroom seem sterile and uninviting. To avoid this, it is suggested that you choose an overall color scheme for your bathroom based on three colors complementary to one another on the Color Wheel. Once you have these three colors, choose one that best suits your bathroom as a paint color for the walls. The other two colors can be shown through any other accents and decor.

Collect All the Proper Materials and Supplies

Before you begin painting your bathroom, gather all the proper painting materials and supplies. These may include:

●      Primer

●      Paint

●      Stir sticks

●      Paint rollers

●      Roller covers

●      Disposable gloves and other safety gear to protect your skin or inhalation

●      Small paint brushes, for cutting in or touch-ups

●      Paint trays

●      Painters tape

●      Rags

●      Drop cloths

●      Sandpaper

●      Tack cloth to remove any sanding dust

●      Painters putty

●      Putty knife

Being prepared to paint is extremely important. Otherwise, you may end up with a mess or an unfinished project due to the lack of supplies. Running out for more could cause the paint to dry in the meantime, which won’t due any justice to the overall appearance of the paint job.

Make Sure Your Bathroom Is Properly Ventilated

It’s vital to your health and the completion of your bathroom paint project if proper ventilation is provided. The higher levels of humidity can damage your paint in no time or stop it from completely drying. To provide adequate ventilation, open windows, turn on ceiling fans nearby, or start the exhaust fan to help clear the room of any steam. This will remove the moisture faster. Have those in the household run a fan if they need to use the bathroom at any point.

Conduct Prep Work

Prep your bathroom by removing any outlet plates such as electrical sockets or light switches. Then, lightly wash down the walls with soap and warm water. After the walls dry completely, apply painters tape to the baseboards. Next, patch and sand any dents or holes in the walls. To protect your floors, tape down a drop cloth. You may also want to cover your counter, sink, bathtub and toilet to prevent them from paint spills or drips.

Before you paint, you will want to prime the walls first. Make sure the primer is fully dry before you start putting on the first layer of paint. When you do go to paint the color on the walls, cut in around the room’s edges first. This includes where the walls meet adjoining walls, the ceiling and the baseboard.

Use More Durable Paint on Window Sills

If you plan on repainting your window sills in the bathroom, you may want to consider using more durable paint. High gloss or semi gloss paint is perhaps best for your window frame and sill since moisture seems to be more prevalent in these areas. If moisture around the window sills of your bathroom is of your utmost concern, you may even upgrade to an exterior paint for this part of your project.

Consider Wood Paneling

If your drywall isn’t in the best of shape or you prefer not to redo the drywall in your bathroom, consider wood paneling. You can often find wood paneling sold cheaply by the sheet. These sheets come in many styles, wood types, and colors. Nonetheless, you can always install them and paint them whichever color you choose. When you apply wood panels to your bathroom walls, they are adding more protection against moisture as well as a lovely contrast to whatever paint color you chose for the remaining wall space.

Have a Variety of Lighting and Capture the Room’s Essence

Lighting plays a large role in the essence of your bathroom even after you paint. Since the levels of natural light are always changing in a bathroom throughout the day, it’s wise to have a good balance of both natural and fixed lighting. A lot of natural light will only enhance any and every flaw you make in the bathroom during your painting project. Even after you complete the paint job, the flaws will still be noticeable. With this in mind, paints with a higher shine are best.

When you have a smaller sized bathroom that gets a lot of natural light, ask the representatives where you plan to purchase the paint if they can mix it at 75% strength. This will lighten the color slightly which prevents flaws from being as noticeable. Aside from lighting the strength of color in the paint, there are ways you can play with the lighting to keep the color of the walls looking as close as possible to the color you desire. For instance, to warm up the color you can choose 40 watt incandescent light bulbs, while 100 watt light bulbs tend to make the color in the room seem cooler.

Don’t Rush Your Project

Perhaps the most detrimental thing you can do while painting the bathroom in your home is rush to complete it. Of course, poor preparation also plays a substantial role in a bad paint job. Nevertheless, it is the failure to take your time that really makes the paint in your bathroom lack appeal and showcase any flaws. Take your time. Even by doing so, the entire bathroom should be fully painted and completed in just a few days time. Make sure that you prepare your drywall, smooth out the walls, prime, and paint the next layer after each layer is completely dry. By doing so, you are certainly going to be more pleased with the results.

Guest Contributor, Tom Masters